The origins of contemporary goldsmith research: the jewel from an artisan work to a work of art - ninth part

Contemporary ornament reclaims meanings that consumer society, the result of mass industrialization and well-being, has erased. It can still be the favorite archetype of human thought and needs .

Contemporary experiments in the field of visual arts often become the cultural languages ​​from which the goldsmith artist draws inspiration for his creations; while new technologies are the "new tools" that he "can use for his creative intentions" , overcoming the prejudice that sees the intervention of the machine and technology as a reason for debasing the artistic act. The Englishman David Watkins (1940), for example, director of the metals section of the Royal College of London, used the computer as a design tool for the first time twenty years ago.

The hitherto inseparable relationship between jewelery and the human body, due to its fundamental nature as an ornament, becomes more labile, so much so that contemporary jewelery is considered the protagonist of performances and installations .

To be able to wear these ornaments you need to have a more disenchanted, less conventional vision of life , you need to be able to intuit hidden messages between things and to continue to marvel at the new and continuous stimuli that things themselves offer us. In this regard, I like to remember the current director of the Massana school in Barcelona, ​​Ramón Puig Cuyás (1953), who knows how to transform relics of everyday life - pieces of metal, buttons, wood and stones - into a significant whole, like artefacts from time, condensations of stories to wear.

Contemporary jewelery is more "democratic" than traditional jewellery, as it can be worn by all those who have a particular ability to freely interpret the art of adorning themselves. A stiff paper necklace by the Dutch Nel Linssen (1935), for example, unites, once worn, the rich collector in search of the unusual, shocking jewel, and the young girl who does not feel at ease with a pearl necklace, but he prefers to present himself to others with a necklace, delicate, natural and conceptual, such as a paper one.

The contemporary ornament is an expression of one's singular personality and can hardly be a "family possession" that can be transmitted from generation to generation because it cannot be worn by different people without changing its meaning and value (ideal).